Friday, July 07, 2006

Fireworks on the Fourth of July!

Oh man, where to begin?! I've got some pictures, some new travels to relate, a great football (i.e. soccer) experience. . . I'm going to start with the football.

On the July 4th, Italy was matched against Germany in a semi-final match for the World Cup. The World Cup, as the whole world knows (yes even us oblivious Americans) is a very big deal. In Europe especially, the World Cup is bigger than the Olympics, the elections, the Economy, it's everything. And Italy is no exception to this. As Winston Churchill said, the Italians lose wars like football matches and football matches like wars.

Luckily, I found myself in Rome for this match. Rome takes its football very seriously. Courtney and I trekked down to the "Circo Massimo" the ancient chariot racing stadium, where the city had set up a giant screen. We were joined by thousands of Italians (10,000? 20,000? I have no idea the exact number) and I have never witnessed a sports spectacle quite like this.

Everyone stood for the entire game: men, women, children, old folks, were focused completely on the match. The collective groans and cheers shook the ground. Halftime was a demonstration of incredible pride, with flag waving, singing, and cheering throughout the fifteen minutes (I think it was a combination of real pride and showing off for the TV cameras). The thing was, nothing was really happening! Italy would try to score, then lose the ball, ditto with Germany, a few close calls, and poof, just like that 90 minutes of play went by and overtime was upon us. (As I have learned with football over the past few weeks is that there isn't a whole lot of scoring. Despite this, it is an incredibly exciting sport.)

The tension in the air was palpable. First 15 minute overtime: nothing. More tension. Second 15 minute overtime: GOOOOOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAAALLLLLLLL (this is how they say it in Europe). Not just one, but two! Italy won! Amazing.

Courtney and I were both thrilled. The crowd was giving mass hugs, high fives, shouts and songs. Of particular interest to my innate Americanism were the fireworks that went off shortly after the game ended: an American in Rome got fireworks on the fourth of July.

As we walked home from the game past the Colosseum, the celebration spilled onto the streets. Italian flags everywhere, car horns honking, and people running every which way. Here is a neat picture (that I got from Flickr. Like an idiot I didn't bring my camera.)


I have been trying to find pictures from the Circus Maximus but without luck. If anyone out there has seen any, forward them my way.

Aside from the World Cup, we've seen plenty of action on this trip. Pictures are worth a thousand words, so here are a few:

The view from our room in Cinque Terre:

On the hike in Cinque Terre:

The Ancient Roman Theatre (c. 10 B.C.) in Volterra (a quaint little hilltop town in Tuscany): Sunflowers on the side of the road in Tuscany:

Okay, quick narrative -- On our trip through Tuscany, Courtney and I stayed in two different farm houses. The first was run by Max and owned by Tony. Tony was a dentist who made wine on his farm and was pretty much a nice guy. Max is a lawyer who quit the practice to run this farm house. He loves jazz, latin, food, wine and people. Max was a great guy who hung out with us during breakfast and dinner, talking about the region and the aforementioned passions. He was awesome.

The next farm house we stayed in was owned and operated by The Valeris, an organic farmer, Stefano; his gourmet chef wife, Grazia; thier 19-year-old daughter, Chiara; and 23-year-old son Michele. We stayed in a guest house in their farm, had dinner with the family (an incredible meal, with fried zucchini flowers, ricotta wrapped in tuna, fried chicken and rabbit, roast steak, greens, home made wine, gelato, and finished with an incredibly delicious grappa), and was treated to a fine breakfast the morning of our departure. Yes, I'm brining a bottle of wine and grappa home with me.

As Courtney and I prepared ourselves to return our rental car in Florence, we asked if Grazia would call the rental car place to get good directions for us, since our italian wasn't any good. Chiara was her scribe. Here is a photo montage (pay particular attention to Chiara):

There was something about this exchange that felt so italian. I don't know why exactly, but it seemed authentic. And no, I'm not exactly sure how the cat got involved.

There are a ton more pictures, stories, and experiences to relate (Siena, Lucca, Firenze, Roma, and the rest of Tuscany), but I think they'll have to wait till I get home. Besides, they are better served by pictures anyway. As always, more to come.

2 Comments:

Blogger Brandán Buenosayres said...

Are you still in Italy? Must be going off right about now. The whole Zidane thing depresses me, man...

8:49 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Glad you enjoyed your stay with the Valleri's!

They are a wonderful family. For farm stays, contact them! You'll also be supporting organic and traditional agriculture in Tuscany.

Contact details at:
http://www.tizzodellatorre.com
phone: +39-055-950-0002

2:57 PM  

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